Everything is dependent on a well-thought-out introduction. Most cats do not welcome a new member of the family right away; they need time to acclimate. His personality would be a good match for the E- cat’s. It is critical to remain patient and not rush. Don’t risk a full-fledged fight; if in doubt, wait a few more days before proceeding. It is easier to avoid problems than it is to address them.
A planned introduction must consider and balance numerous factors, including age, stature, and personality. Experience is essential. A stray can be aggressive, possessive, and competitive. An orphaned hand-reared kitten may grow into an uneasy and fearful adult; when living with another cat, this type of cat may take longer and require more patience to acclimate. The longer the introduction method, the further the scenario deviates from the ideal.
The adjustment period and establishing a new routine may be longer than the normal 6 to 12 weeks. If enough factors collide, the cats may become adversaries rather than friends.
The New cat (N-cat) would be younger and smaller than the Existing cat if everything went well (E-cat). N-cat would be neutered or spayed and of the opposite sex. It’s natural to hear hissing, posturing, and chasing. During the decision-making process, you would meet and interact with potential adoptees carefully and rationally, rather than emotionally.
The reality is that there are instances when there is no other option. Humans decided to cohabitate with cats, and the cats must learn to cohabitate as well. Remember that E-cat should be inconvenienced as little as possible during the introduction process; be prepared to be patient, especially if the cats have had little or no experience living with another cat.
If you decide to get a new cat, you must introduce it to your existing cat-home slowly and cautiously. Any new cat introduced into your home should be physically segregated from your E-cat at first to allow him time to acclimatize to his new surroundings and for both cats to become familiar with each other’s scents and sounds. If the cat you’re bringing in has no known history, he must be inspected by a veterinarian for parasites and disease, tested for leukemia, and vaccinated before coming into contact with E-cat.
The Isolation Area
All introductions follow the same basic rules. The isolation space should be a room with a closed door so that the newcomer and the existing cat do not come into touch. With the exception of the N-isolation cat’s area, the existing cat, E-cat, will have free run of the house. The newcomer, N-cat, will be quarantined. Food/water, a litter box, many comfy hiding locations, a scratching post, and a few toys should be included in the N-area cat’s environment.
If you don’t have a spare room, you can create one in your bedroom or bathroom. If your E-cat is used to sleeping with you, you may need to use the restroom. This type of introduction can be challenging at times. Denying E-cat this basic level of friendship abruptly will worsen the situation.
If you must use the restroom and the E-litter cat’s box is currently located there, relocate the box or build one with a privacy screen. Do this at least two weeks before bringing the newcomer home. E-cat will be able to avoid mayhem if he plans ahead of time.
The isolation area must be adequately ventilated and cat proofed. The basic layout should contain a litter box, a food/water bowl, and a cave-like hiding box lined with something soft. Attempt to spend quality time with E-cat. Speak to him and remind him that even though things aren’t the same as they used to be, he is still special. Play his favorite games beside him. Every day, groom him. Give him small bites of something tasty. Make it your own.
Step two:
Now that E-cat has grown accustomed to the newcomer’s brief presence, it’s time to move on. The next level will allow them to see one other without establishing complete physical contact. Stack two 36″ high tension gates in the newcomer’s doorway. Most specialist or department stores for children carry strong plastic mesh baby gates. If you have reason to believe that either cat will get past the 6′ gate arrangement, use PLAN B. It is critical that the cats not fight. PLAN B: jam the isolation room door with two firm rubber door stops, one on each side, with the door slightly open 2 to 3 inches.
Make sure neither cat’s head fits through the hole. If a cat body aggressively bangs the door, make sure it is secure and will not unexpectedly pop open or slam shut. They’ll be able to smell one other’s noses, smack each other’s paws, and inspect each other without making full body contact. When you are not at home or are unable to supervise at least peripherally, close the door. Continue until the cats appear relatively relaxed in each other’s presence; hissing, posturing, and growling should be limited.
Step three
Finally, you have the opportunity to open the door! When E-cat is not present, lower the gates or open the door. Make no great deal out of it. Allow the cats to cross paths by coincidence. Don’t get engaged and stay on the sidelines. E-cat may stalk and chase the intruder, which is typical territorial behavior. If E-cat enters the isolation chamber, the newcomer may follow suit. Never leave them unsupervised.
Keep your hands away from any cat fights that occur. Never try to pick up or handle either cat. Clap your hands and yell, smack a pot with a spoon, throw water, do everything to scare them away from a tangled mass of battling cats. It frequently sounds far worse than it is. Cats may yowl and scream, but if their nails are clipped before to the EVENT, the damage should be minimal. Declawed cats are forced to bite. When the situation has cooled down somewhat, thoroughly evaluate each of their bodies for injuries. Bite and puncture wounds can develop infected and abscessive. If either cat appears to be wounded, contact your veterinarian right once.
The complete process can take anywhere from a few days (kitten to kitten/juvenile) to many months (adult to adult); lot depends on how much you deviated from the IDEAL. You must be on the watch for stress indicators. Excessive grooming, napping, and/or drinking, as well as eating quickly and then vomiting, are all signs of unhappiness. Spraying, uncontrolled urination and defecation, mewling, and hiding habits have all been connected to anxiety and stress.
Encourage no competitiveness. Continue to feed in various areas. Maintain the cleanliness of the two litterboxes. Many E-cats have been seen blocking doors and preventing entrance to the box or bowl. Consolidation should not be rushed. If a cat is unable to reach his litter box, he must construct a new toilet!
The fighting will finally stop. The newcomer will quit perching and running about the room’s edges, and E-cat will stop chasing and stalking. They will declare a cease-fire. They might start gspacing each other and sharing sleeping quarters. In the worst-case situation, you will coexist peacefully and with mutual respect. They’ll hopefully become best pals.
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