How to Crate Train Your Cat

by catfood

Take the stress out of car rides and vet visits

Crate training cats is still beneficial even though it is less common than it is for dogs. Even adult cats who are less willing to learn than kittens are willing to learn how to use a kennel. Adult cats are less willing to learn than kittens.


Many cat owners believe that cats don’t visit the veterinarian as regularly as they ought to, and many felines only see the crate when it’s time to go to the veterinarian or the groomer. Your cat is a wise companion. The cat only needs one unpleasant encounter in the crate to learn it will not be enjoyable.

Teach your cat to associate joyful activities with the box or carrier instead. As a result, you may quickly confine and move the animal safely whenever necessary without having to play hide-and-seek with the fearful cat during emergencies. The cat’s eager acceptance of the crate results in less stress and a happier, emotionally healthier cat.

Explain the Crate

The first piece of furniture should be the crate. Place your cat on the floor in a corner of the room so it can explore at its own speed. If the crate is constantly left outside, its creepy or odd appeal fades. To enable your cat to enter and exit the crate, remove the door. For a bed, place a soft blanket or towel inside, preferably one that you previously used to scent-mark the area for your cat.


Think about clicker training

To get your cat to enter the kennel straight immediately, consider using clicker training. Discuss where to purchase the educational snacks and how to “load the clicker” for spontaneous sessions. Wait until the proper time to approach when you see your cat sniffing, entering, or approaching the crate. After your cat has been calm for ten minutes, pick up the carrier and move it around. Let the cat out after that. With further practice, your pet cat will become more adept at hanging out in the vicinity of or within the crate.

The door once more

It can take the kitten or cat a week or more to grow comfortable to the carrier. Reinstall the entranceway when that happens, then watch the cat come in. Then, shut the door with a soft, happy voice. You must convince your cat that this is normal and that there is no reason for her to be upset. Allow your cat to go outside after a short while, and then spoil it with a treat or toy reserved for good behavior. The cat was killed by Pracan’s fright. Your cat should be aware of the benefits of being calm inside the crate.


Boost repetition

Repeat training sessions at least once daily over the next two weeks, extending the period until the cat can remain indoors for three minutes, four minutes, five minutes, and so on. Use the clicker to indicate that the cat should contact, enter, or even merely approach the crate. Reward the cat with a treat or their chosen toy. Bring the cat’s carrier inside after letting it out of the car and sitting in the driver’s seat. Don’t forget to distribute the treat.

Take into account your cat’s associations with the cage or carrier as well. The cat will eventually realize that the carrier usually means well. In the end, it won’t merely be connected to the trip to the veterinarian.


  • To assist calm cats down inside the box, Feliway can be sprayed. A synthetic version of the cat-comforting cheek pheromone is called Feliway.
  • To construct a cat playground, insert a ping-pong ball inside the hard container you’ve chosen.
  • If your cat enjoys receiving goodies, bury some tasty snacks inside for him to uncover. They’ll immediately discover that going into the magical container will bring them the best, yummiest benefits. The crate is intended to be the best entertaining area in the house.

Problems and Proofing Techniques

Never stop training your cat and limit its travel arrangements to a carrier or kennel. To avoid distracting you while driving or harming them in the event of an accident or sudden braking, pets should always ride in a carrier when riding in a car. A stray animal can also get out of the car.

An elderly cat whose past associations with the cage have been unfavorable shouldn’t behave suddenly. A frequent training fault is rushing the procedures and expecting quick results. Give your cat plenty of time. While you rest from some of the workouts, you might need to put the training process on hold for a week or two. Once your cat has completed a stage, move on to the next one.

Soon enough, you should be able to carry your cat without worrying about it being angry. If you just use the carrier to take your cat to the vet, the groomer, or other unpleasant places, it’s possible that it won’t like it. Try moving the carrier inside the house from one room to another, then go for a quick drive and come back. Consider introducing the cat to different places it could enjoy after it is in the crate, such as a friend who will welcome your kitty with treats.

If you’re still having difficulties convincing your cat to accept a crate, consider switching it out for a new type of container (for example, swap a hard carrier for a soft one, or try a bigger or smaller cage).

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