They are versatile and can be used as hooks, crampons, switchblades, or chisels. A cat’s claws are the Swiss Army knife of the feline toolbox. They are required in practically every role that a cat performs.
What exactly is the point?
The Predator’s claws hold the target while the great hunter positions himself to perform the lethal bite at the back of the neck. During play, the claws grab a toy while the cat rubs against it or rakes it with his hind feet.
Sir Hillary’s claws assist him in climbing trees, bookcases, and upholstered furniture. When he sinks his claws, he adjusts his body weight to maintain proper balance and stable footing.
By scratching on surfaces, the Communicator’s claws assist him in leaving messages for other cats.
Claws leave a visible territorial mark, whereas smell glands in paw pads leave an olfactory imprint.
Finally, the Protector’s claws serve as his first line of defense. If you have an elderly cat who is already resistant to manicures, the mummy technique may be your best bet. When she needs to defend herself, she rolls onto her back, four paws extended, claws ready for action.
Claws are required! Nonetheless, many homeowners separate a cat from his claws for the sake of the sofa through surgical declawing. While all cats need to be scratched, only a few need to be declawed.
The majority of scratching needs can be met by providing suitable scratching and climbing surfaces. Many felines like posts that are at least three feet tall and have sturdy bases made of sisal, fabric, or rope. For owners with extra space and money, multi-level cat furniture with resting and climbing platforms on tree trunk-type stilts can meet a cat’s climbing and scratching needs.
If your cat doesn’t figure out where you want him to scratch right away, a few goodies might help. Low-cost corrugated cardboard scratch boxes sprinkled with catnip may entice cats away from previously preferred sofa arms, especially if those arms are temporarily covered with industrial-strength plastic sheeting. The cat’s antipathy to plastic is increased by applying strips of double-stick masking tape over it. Double-sided adhesive plastic strips are commercially available.
Many folks have called the ASPCA Behavior Helpline in the past to discuss declaw surgery. When asked how often they clip their cat’s nails, almost every caller answered, “Never.” Coincidence? I don’t believe so! If a cat’s claws are kept dull, it will cause little to no damage when it strays from the scratching post. Trim your nails every two to three weeks to attain better results without surgery.
Here are some guidelines if you’ve never done a cat manicure before:
- Begin cutting your cat’s claws when he or she is young, if possible. Kittens are ready for nail clipping the moment they leave their littermates, so begin the process no later than ten to twelve weeks of age.
- Make it pleasurable. At begin, trim only a few nails at a time. Give the cat a treat or scratch him in his favorite spots before letting him go.
- If you can’t make it fun, at least make it quick. A single paw swat is all that is required to drive another cat away from desired territory or to discipline a new puppy. Wrap a large towel around her, leaving only her head exposed. Bring out one paw at a time, trimming the nails as soon as possible.
- Some carers realize that scheduling the manicure after a meal allows them to avoid using a towel. If the cat is tired after meal, she will be more comfortable and easier to manage.
Whatever method you select, the tool of choice is a pair of sharp, well-made cat nail scissors. Other tools can be utilized, but when dealing with a wriggling bundle of cats, a pair of scissors may be the easiest to use.
There’s no reason to be concerned about your cat’s nails. You can coexist peacefully with your cat’s arsenal if you maintain a trimming regimen and have the necessary equipment.
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